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Hunters, Tyrolia, Sissi and touch of a Grimm Brothers fable. Emilio Pucci Fall Winter 2011 by Peter Dundas is a voyage into high mountains where loden greens, okra yellows, burgundies, robin egg blues and magenta colour the foliage of the horizon. Like in a fairytale, the Pucci Girl travels through dark forests to dreamy winter “schloesser” in faraway reaching places. The collection weaves ultra-rich with functionality, utilitarian with precious, often left raw and unfinished. References to the beautiful, inspiring work of Robert Polidori’s restoration of Versailles is a point of departure. The collection pushes the boundaries of craftsmanship with embellished loden, flannels, velvet appliqués and overprinted jacquards. Narrow “leg-of-mutton” sleeves on precise jackets and riding coats with raw cut edges are worn over ultra-slim trousers in whipcord or suede with applications like a new “lederhosen”. Dirndl skirted dresses are corseted while shifts, long and short, in jersey with generous portrait necklines, fringed and embroidered, further accentuate the collection’s craftsmanship. |
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Velvets and Pucci jacquards are reworked as smoking jackets or dresses à la Victoire de Castellane embellished with cabochons like wearable jewellery. Archive prints pay homage to the Austrian mountains reinterpreted in hand-painted renderings or sumptuous metallic weavings and delicate laces. The collection takes pleasure in the precious and luxurious, but this is embraced in a totally modern way through the unfinished details giving a casual allure to the most sophisticated of options. |
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